For a simple hairstyle, pigtails carry with them a heavy load of associations—Lolita, Pippi Longstockings, Dorothy in the Wizard of Oz,
Harajuku girls from Japan—and most of them more cute than chic. At
Marni, however, hairstylist Paul Hanlon added an interesting twist
(literally) that took the style out of grade school and into high
fashion.
"We usually play with a lot of
crazy textures for this show, but the collection this season is very
graphic and architectural so the hair needed to be more precise," said
Hanlon, who looked at both Argentinian gaucho hairstyles and Henri
Mattise paintings, specifically the artist's linear, undulating
brushstrokes when he sketched or painted hair.
From the front, the style looked just like regular old pigtails (and
you were probably focused on the long, wispy fake lashes applied by
makeup artist Tom Pecheux). But as the models exited the runway it was
an entirely different story. Hanlon divided the hair into three
sections—the two pigtails and a small triangle of hair at the nape of
the neck that he clipped up out of the way. After flat-ironing the hair
straight and creating his pigtails, Hanlon unclipped the third section.
He's split that piece of hair in half, following the part already in
place (middle or side, depending on the model's face shape), and wrapped
the right side over the right pigtail and the left side over the left
pigtails, securing them in place with a couple U-shaped pins. Hanlon
described the little detail in the back several different ways (as a
roll, a twist, and even a fold) but whatever you decide to call it, I
think we can all agree these pigtails are supercool—and all grown up.
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